Mark… My Words
Hi Mark,
I live in the Northeast and have heard pros and cons about covering RVs or campers with tarps for our winter season. I have winterized water lines and removed all freezable liquids but would like to protect my camper with a tarp for the winter. Is this the correct thing to do?
Thanks,
Roberta
Hi Roberta,
— A cover may not be necessary. If your RV roof is in good repair, it will stand up to Mother Nature without the need for a cover. Just remove any large snow accumulation as soon as possible to prevent the buildup of heavy snow from damaging your roof structure due to excessive weight. If you still wish to cover your RV, avoid inexpensive poly tarps or sheeting (the blue or green hardware store variety). These tarps will not breathe and can trap moisture underneath, where it can harm the RV's finish. This can create an environment where mildew, or even rot, can form. These inexpensive tarps can also trap abrasive dirt and grit against the finish, and any wind–driven movement can cause scratches. Spend the extra money to get a good quality RV cover, one that is designed to shed water but still allow for evaporation from underneath. Such covers are not cheap, but are a good investment, especially if you intend to cover your rig every year.
Dear Mark,
Could you please send your article on winterizing the RV? I know I read it and thought I kept it, but apparently I didn't. Could you email a copy to me?
Thanks so much!
Marylou
Hi Marylou,
— You can access that winterizing article online at www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/skp/winterizing.htm. Also, check your RV owner's manual for additional tips and requirements that are specific to your RV.
Dear Mark,
I own a 26 ft. Class C mini–motorhome, the Freedom Express Special Camping World Edition—2008 model— by Coachman. My question is—I live in the Northeast and plan to store the motorhome in the driveway, covered for the winter. Is it alright to leave the coach batteries in and keep the unit plugged in for the winter? I plan to start up the chassis engine about every week or so to keep that in tune. Thank you for your time in answering my question.
Cathy
Hi Cathy,
— It's fine to leave the RV plugged in over the winter, but remember to check your house batteries at least once a month and add water as needed. Many RV converters will slowly boil off the water in the batteries during a long storage period. Don't forget to remove any freezable food and things like toiletries and cleaning products. Running a small heat source inside the RV may also be a good idea. Also, be sure to drain all tanks and winterize the plumbing system.
Dear Mark,
Is it better to remove the batteries from the RV during winter storage or leave them in the RV with a trickle charger attached? We are in Montana, where the winters get very cold.
Thanks,
Bev
Hi Bev,
— In extremely cold conditions, your batteries will probably be happier if you remove them from the rig and store them indoors in a garage or building that is protected from freezing. In extreme conditions, batteries can freeze, and when that happens, they turn into boat anchors. When storing deep–cycle batteries outside of the rig, it's not necessary to keep a trickle charger on them all the time. You'll be better off letting them set for 3–4 weeks and then place a regular portable battery charger on them overnight to bring them up to a full charge. They'll be happier that way and consume less water. Check the water when you charge them. If you need to keep the rig plugged into AC power during storage with the batteries removed, it is best to shut down the 12V converter, either by unplugging it or shutting off the AC breaker that feeds it. Some converters need the batteries hooked up to provide a load for regulation and filtering.
Hi Mark,
As we are aware, when disconnecting a battery, one should disconnect the negative side first, then the positive, and reverse that order when reconnecting. However, how does it work when there are two 12–volt batteries connected in parallel? Which battery would you disconnect the ground from first? Would you disconnect the negative on the battery that the coach negative cable is connected to first, followed by that same battery's positive cable? Then disconnect the ground from the second battery followed by the positive?
Just curious,
Harv
Hi Harv,
Disconnect both grounds first. It doesn't really matter which battery you start with, but do both ground terminals before you start on the + sides to avoid shorting out the + side by getting a tool between the + terminal and the frame.
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Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program.
Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582.
