Go Wild In Pennsylvania
To witness the wonders of nature's woods and waters.
By Bob Difley
Follow state Route 6 west, out of Wellsboro, through the Pennsylvania Wilds on what National Geographic Magazine called "One of America's Most Scenic Drives." Potter County's more than one million acres of sparsely settled wilderness provides isolation from light pollution, offering the darkest skies east of the Mississippi. No wonder that astronomers call the 48–acre Cherry Springs State Park the best star–gazing spot in the northeast. Nestled within Susquehannock State Forest, the park has 30 campsites and a dump station.
If you want to delve into the history of the area, stop at the McKean County Historical Society Museum in Smethport and, while you're there, take a stroll down Main Street to see the restored Victorian mansions of the old lumber barons.
From Smethport, you have a chance to take Route 59 into the Allegheny National Forest, to
the Allegheny Reservoir and Rimrock Overlook (about a mile before you get to the marina). Watch for the sign and take the side road to the parking area for large views of the forest and reservoir. Continue to Kinzua Beach and Dam, and on to Warren, one of the largest cities in the wilds area and a good resupply point.
The half–million–plus acres of the Allegheny National Forest dominate the western end of the Pennsylvania Wilds. Here, you can spend hours on end enjoying scenic driving tours, hiking in the woods, fishing its rivers and streams, or simply relaxing in one of the forest's 600 campsites surrounded by the peacefulness of the forest.
There are six boat launches, six canoe or kayak access sites, and two nationally designated wildernesses, the only ones in the state where foot traffic is the only means of transportation.
It was at Tionesta Lake campground, in the southwestern corner of the forest, that my West Coast–born wife, Lynn, saw her first groundhog/woodchuck. Remember the tongue twister, "How much wood could a woodchuck chuck, if a woodchuck could chuck wood"? She still mixes up its name, often calling it a groundchuck.
If, when at Smethport, you decided to stay on Route 6 instead of taking route 59 into the forest, you would come to Kinzua State Park.
The Kinzua Story
General Thomas Kane, lawyer, Civil War veteran and president of a large coal company, was not a man to be discouraged or defeated easily. When he needed to ship his coal from the south side of the Kinzua Valley, where his coal was, to the north side, where his customers were, his decision to build a bridge was a "no–brainer." His Kinzua Bridge, completed in 1882, was an instant wonder of the modern world and tourist attraction – the highest (301 feet) and the longest (2,053 feet) bridge in the world at that time.
Though rebuilt in 1900 and maintained for more than a hundred years, the tornado of July 21, 2003, which swept through the forest tearing hundreds of trees out by their roots, left 11 of the bridge's 20 soaring towers in a tangle of crumpled steel at the bottom of the canyon. You can get a good view of what is left of the bridge and the dramatic Kinzua Valley at Kinzua Bridge State Park, on Route 6 near Marvindale.
As you wander about enjoying the scenery, watch for one of the eight wineries scattered about the Pennsylvania Wilds. You can tour some of the wineries to see how Keystone State wines are made and pick a hearty red for those chilly evenings or add to your onboard wine cellar. Most of the wineries have tasting rooms and tours.
Elk Country
Until 1867, stately elk roamed freely throughout Pennsylvania but were threatened by over–hunting. With the introduction of Rocky Mountain elk between 1913 and 1926, the herds recovered such that you can now count as many as 500, making this the largest elk herd east of the Mississippi. Listen for their trumpeting at the start of the fall mating season, or watch for mothers and their young calves in the spring.
Several routes wind through elk country, where pull–offs and view sights overlook some of the more popular elk gathering spots. Follow Route 555 along Sinnemahoning Creek between Weedville and Driftwood; Route 120, the Bucktail Highway, heads both ways from Driftwood. Both are part of the 127–mile–long Elk Scenic Drive loop.
From Renovo (on 120), state Route 144 heads south for a 27–mile side trip along the top of the Allegheny Ridge plateau, through miles of mixed evergreens and hardwoods, scored by stream–gouged canyons and embellished by the subtle creamy flowers of mountain laurel. In this remote section of Sproul State Forest, take note that you don't see any power lines, houses or other encroaching signs of civilization; only bear, deer and elk. This drive is also designated an Important Bird Area by the Audubon Society. Great views of the forested wilderness can be had at Dennison Run and Burns Run overlooks. Dennison Overlook is also included in the Dark Skies Directory, having no night–time light pollution within 10 miles.
Back at Renovo, continue east on Route 120, the Bucktail Scenic byway, along the Old Sinnemahoning Trail used by Native Americans along the West Branch of the Susquehanna River, designated Pennsylvania's "River of the Year" in 2006. This water trail flows more than 200 miles to Sunbury, where it joins the North Branch to become the nation's 16th largest river. The Lenape people gave it the name "Susquehanna," which means "the long winding river."
For More Information
Pine Creek Outfitters
5142 Route 6
Wellsboro, PA 16901
(570) 724–3003
Canyon Country Campground
130 Wilson Road
Wellsboro, PA 16901
(570) 724–3818
Tanglewood Camping
P.O. Box 35
Covington, PA 16917
(570) 549–8299
Twin Streams Campground
2143 Route 287
Morris, PA 16938
(570) 353–7251
Holiday Pines Campground
16 Pine Tree Lane
Loganton, PA 17747
(570) 725–2267
Consult your 2007 Woodall's North American Campground Directory for a complete list of area campgrounds. |
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