Mark… My Words
Dear Mark,
Is there a list somewhere with information on which vehicles are the better choice when looking to tow? We have a 2003 Monaco LaPalma (gas) and are looking at getting a small car to tow. We need seating for 5 (3 grandkids), not too expensive, and lightweight. If we can find a used car in good condition, that would be even better. We would like to tow 4 wheels down, so do you have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Leslie
Leslie,
— I know I've answered this one before, but the question comes up over and over, so I'll re–visit it for those who missed it the last time. To research which vehicles can be towed 4–down behind your motorhome, I know of no better source than the Motorhome Magazine website: www.motorhomemagazine.com. They have been publishing annual dinghy towing guides for years, and the guides include all the information you'll need to determine which vehicles can be towed 4–down. You can download the 2002 through 2007 guides for free right on their Website. For guides published prior to 2002, you can email a request to info@motorhomemagazine.com or call (805) 667–4341. The older copies are $3.95 each. Look on the lower left of their home page for the links to "Dinghy Guides".
Hi Mark,
TV is quite important to my husband. Is it best to have satellite or to depend on the various parks for service?
Bobbie
Bobbie,
— If having TV is important to you, or your mate, then satellite is really the only way to go. Many parks don't provide cable TV, and in remote areas you'll often be lucky to get a couple of snowy channels using the rig's TV antenna. Both Dish Network and DirecTV systems can be used in an RV. In fact, both companies offer programming solutions for mobile customers that allow you to receive network programming regardless of where you are parked. You can set your antenna up yourself on a tripod or roof mount, or invest in one of the automated antennas designed for RV use. For more info on the basics of satellite TV in your RV, take a look at the satellite article on my website.
Hi Mark.
Appreciated the black tank chemical issue. This is our second rig that has a black tank sensor issue. I deliberately asked about this when we bought our 5th wheel. Got all sorts of advice; use baking soda, use crushed ice, use certain chemicals in the tank cleaners. We still have the problem, occasionally it clears up a bit then reads full again after the tank is dumped. Is there any true way to fix this?
Thanks,
Norma
Hi Norma,
— This problem has plagued RVers for decades. That's primarily because the typical tank sensor system has not changed much since the 1980s. Most RV tank sensors utilize small metal probes that are in actual contact with the tank contents. Over time, the buildup of *yuck*, or even one errant piece of toilet paper getting hung up on a sensor, will cause false readings. There are wide assortments of tank cleaning concoctions on the shelves of your local RV store and there are dozens of home–brew cleaning ideas out there… some work better than others, but nothing will fix the problem permanently.
I think that the best way to address this common problem is to invest in a replacement tank monitoring system. There are several different ones on the market and they all work without any electrical probes inside the tank. Some systems simply require a sensor or two be placed on the outside of the tank body. The system then reads the level of the contents of the tank through the tank wall. Since the tank contacts never touch the sensors, they tend to be very reliable. Other systems use a pressure sensing method to determine the level in the tank. Here are a few links to some examples of these systems, by no means a complete list:
Accu–Gage
SeeLevel
MicroPulse
I have purchased and installed several of the Accu–gage systems for my RVs over the last 10 years and I have personally been very pleased with them. These systems are very accurate and linear, and can be installed by the average do–it–yourselfer.
Hello Mark,
I have enjoyed your articles ever since you started with the SKPs. We now are full–time RVing and love it. When we had a 30 amp service, I purchased 30 amp test light and checked all camp power poles before connecting. But now with the 50 amp service, I cannot find a test light available. So I would like to build my own. Do you know of a source for how 50 amp power is wired and the test light circuitry? Thanks for your comments.
Gene
Hello Gene,
— There don't seem to be a lot of off–the–shelf 50A outlet testers out there on the market. I did turn up one, called the Power Pal, available through http://www.got50amps.com. While a plug–in tester may be more convenient, you can get very good results using a meter. The following diagram shows the readings that you should expect across the different pins on common RV receptacles. You can probably devise a tester of your own using this information.
Hi,
I have recently been looking into Honda generators for my 2003 Forest River 32' travel trailer. I run the ceiling ducted a/c, refrigerator, and occasional lights, tv, or microwave. I use gas for the water heater. Is there a recommended generator for use for that? Living in Florida I want to be ready for any storms, and also occasional trips out west.
Thanks in advance!!
Joella
Hi Joella,
There are several portable generators on the market that are a good match for RV use. Many folks like the Honda or Yamaha inverter generators. These units are very quiet and fully portable. Plus, since they are inverter–based, the engine speed is dependant on load. With a light load they just idle along, unlike conventional generators, which run at full RPM regardless of the load. There are also RV generators that are designed to mount on the rear of most towable RVs. Finally, if your rig has space for it, you can install a permanently mounted RV generator. Any of these units, if properly sized, would be a good choice. It all depends on whether you would prefer a generator that you carry around like a (really heavy!) suitcase or one that is primarily attached to your RV for transport. A few warnings, though: If you want to run your roof air, you will generally need a generator that produces 2500–3000 watts at a minimum. Most of the 2000 watt generators will not be able to reliably start a typical 13.5K BTU roof air. Stay away from cheap Chinese generators, as they tend to wear out quickly. Avoid contractor's generators as well, as they are very noisy. Many RV parks and most state and national park campgrounds have noise limits on generators. For your application, I think the Honda EU3000 would be a good choice, but some folks prefer to buy a pair of EU2000 units and parallel them, as each unit weighs less than half what the EU3000 does. It makes them a bit easier to handle and stow.
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Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program.
Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582.
