Mark… My Words
Dear Mark,
My brother has a Monaco Diplomat 2001 just like ours and he asked me a question the other day and the same issue has puzzled me on occasion. The question is this: If you are plugged into, say 30 amp shore power, and you have demands such as air conditioning, microwave, etc., exceeding your source, can you start your genset and augment your watts without disconnecting the ground power?
Loren
Hi Loren,
The short answer is no. You can't use the generator to supplement your shore power in most rigs. Just about every RV that is equipped with a generator is also equipped with a transfer switch that is designed to prevent your generator output from getting connected to your shore power connection. It's kind of an either–or situation. Rigs without automatic transfer switches may require you to plug the rig's shore power cable into an outlet on the rig that the generator feeds. Other RVs will have a switch that will transfer the input side of the rig's A/C power system from the shore power cord to the generator when the generator begins supplying power. This is done to prevent your power cord from becoming "hot" when the generator is running, and to prevent your generator output from feeding back into the shore power receptacle.
Dear Mark,
I have a 1998 Fleetwood Discovery. I live in Colorado. When I go to the mountains and stay above 8,500 feet MSL and I use the gas for the refrigerator, I have problems with the check light coming on and the refrigerator not working. This problem happened to me the last 2 times I camped at high altitude. My current option is to make sure that I stay at a campground that has electricity for my higher altitudes, but this limits where I can stay. Do you have any suggestions?
Troy Fant
Hi Troy,
This problem is not uncommon, and there may not be an easy way to fix it. When the refrigerator is calling for cooling, the flame is fairly high, and the refrigerator will probably initially cool just fine at high altitudes. However, when the proper temperature is reached inside, the control will "throttle back" the flame to maintain a constant temperature. Because of the altitude, this flame will be smaller than normal, and often will go out, causing the check light to come on. Norcold recommends the following for their refrigerators: "Altitudes higher that 5,500 feet above sea level may cause reduced cooling performance and may cause burner outages. Norcold recommends you operate the unit on A/C when altitudes are higher than 5,500 feet above sea level." Dometic doesn't specify an altitude limit that I could find, but I suspect that their units are affected in a similar manner.
If this is a constant problem for you, you might consider replacing your absorption fridge with an AC/DC compressor based fridge. Norcold makes a line of these fridges for RVs, and there are a number of brands popular with the "off the grid"/solar living crowd, like the SunFrost units. These units operate from either 120V AC or 12v–24V DC and compressor–style refrigerators are not affected by altitude.
Dear Mark,
How do you check a converter/charger to see if it is working properly? I don't believe that mine is trickle–charging my battery.
George
Hi George,
Here's a simple test that's really easy, and all you need is a digital voltmeter. Leave the RV plugged into shore power overnight, and then check the voltage directly at the terminals of the house battery(s) with your meter. If you are reading 13.2 to 13.8 volts, then your converter is probably fine. If it is below 13v, chances are your converter is broken, is not getting AC power, or the connection between the battery bank and the converter is open. If the answer is "none of the above" or your voltages are way out of range, get an RV tech to look at the system.
Dear Mark,
I understand there are two companion books which truckers and many RVers use to research grades, clearance, etc., when driving their rigs in the mountains. We are planning a trip from Flat, IL to Los Angeles, CA in October, and would like to get a better understanding of the Interstate options. Can you provide us with the name(s) and a source to purchase such references?
Thanks, Bill
Hi Bill,
The two books you are looking for are titled "Mountain Directory West (and East) for Truckers, RV, and Motorhome Drivers" by Richard W. Miller. Selling for around $18 each, they are a super resource for any RV owner. The "West" book covers Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, New Mexico, Oregon, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming. The "East" book covers everything east of the Mississippi. You can buy them at most larger truck stops, or directly from the R&R Publishing website at www.mountaindirectory.com.
Dear Mark,
We have been avoiding colder weather, so we haven't refilled our LP tank particularly often. During a recent refill the attendant commented that we had some rust on the tank. I asked if there was anything I could or should do about that, but he was more interested in commenting on the use of salts on the roads "back East." The rust on the tank doesn't look particularly advanced, so we're not feeling an immediate threat, but we would certainly appreciate some guidelines as to judging whether a tank has a problem and what might be done to fix or prevent a problem.
Many thanks, Roj
Hello Roj,
Propane tanks are pretty tough, and surface rust is almost inevitable on those frame–mounted tanks. Chances are, you needn't worry about your tank failing right away due to "some rust". However, deep rust, if unchecked, will eventually kill the tank, so it's a good idea to keep it as rust–free as possible. You can periodically use a wire brush to remove surface rust, prime the area with a rusty metal primer, and shoot a couple of coats of Rustoleum, or a similar rust–preventing paint. This will help protect the tank and extend its life. On some RVs, the tank can be disconnected and removed by unhooking the hose at the supply valve and removing the bolts on its mounting brackets. This makes it a lot easier to clean up and paint. Just make sure the tank is close to empty to reduce its weight.
Just so you know, the ASME tanks that are frame–mounted on most Motorhomes are not required to undergo re–certification after 12 years like the DOT portable tanks are.
I want to pass this response to last month's column along, as it is good info! Thanks, Dennis! (Several other readers pointed this out too!)
Mark, RE: Your response to Steve Matlin on brake fade. I suggest rather than overheated pads that Mr. Matlin experienced overheated brake fluid itself (due to over use of the brakes, high altitude, and hot brake components. This causes the fluid to boil and foam – the result is just like when you have air in the brake system – pedal to the floor. A good suggestion would be to flush out all old fluid and refill with high quality fluid.
TTYL!!
Mark
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Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program.
Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582.
