Mark… My Words
Dear Mark,
In about 18 months or more, I plan to retire and hit the road: I am presently a 63 year old single woman, who roamed the world in my 20's and I'm ready for that again. I am also an avid reader of Henry David Thoreau and Emerson and have been assiduously practicing "Simplify, Simplify" for the past year or so. My plan is this: I will drive to the west coast in my present car. Arriving there, I will sell my car and buy a 16–20 foot travel trailer and the vehicle that will safely and adequately pull it. I will then travel around and hopefully get work in the national parks for months at a time. I hope to keep this up for about 3–5 years. I will have my cat as my co–pilot.
Can you recommend some 16–20 foot travel trailers that would fit my bill?
Would second–hand ones be chancy? Can you recommend some vehicles that will pull this safely through the WEST? What are the specifications I should look for?
Thanks so much,
Edie
Edie,
I understand the desire to simplify, but if your goal is to full–time, consider that you are going to be living in this thing. That means you will need more storage space than if you are just "out for the weekend." Remember that there will be days (weeks?) when bad weather forces you to stay inside. Simple creature comforts like a comfortable chair to sit in or a couch to stretch out on become more important. Think about what you want to bring with you when you hit the road and try to estimate what kind of storage space you'll need. I have met some folks out there fulltiming in very small rigs, such as 20 ft. class C motorhomes and 18 ft travel trailers, so it's possible, but possibly not optimal. If you're considering hitting the road for good in a small travel trailer, my advice to you is to take a 3 week trip in one and see if you can live in something that small.
Second–hand RVs, especially trailers, can be a real bargain! Obviously, you'll want something that is structurally sound, and in good overall condition. In general, travel trailers are likely to be lightly used, and buying a pre–owned unit helps you avoid the hit you would take from depreciation on a brand–new one. Don't buy your tow vehicle until you have picked out a rig. Then, make sure that the tow vehicle has adequate tow ratings to handle the trailer you'll be towing. Bumper–pull trailers allow you the widest range of tow vehicles, so you can choose a van, SUV, car, or truck, as long as it is adequate for the job. Check manufacturer's weight and tow ratings on any prospective vehicle, and match them to your trailer's gross weight rating. Leave some headroom, too: chances are, if you are fulltiming, your trailer will probably be pretty close to its rated capacity when loaded. Good luck in your search!
Dear Mark,
We RV full–time, is it okay to use Rid–X in the black water tank and if so how much?
Rick
Rick,
Several years ago, I contacted the folks who make Rid–X and asked about the product's suitability for use in RV holding tanks. I spoke to several of the techs in the labs, and also to their sales staff and management. The final answer that I got was (in essence) that Rid–X was designed for use in septic tanks. The Rid–X folks do not specifically recommend Rid–X for use in RV holding tanks. However, they did state that the product will not harm RV plumbing systems or holding tanks. My opinion is that, while it's probably OK to use Rid–X in your holding tanks, you'll likely get better overall performance from a waste digestion product that's designed for RV use.
Dear Mark,
My parents have moved into their travel trailer full–time for their retirement. They sit long periods of time in one place. Will the chemicals work in their holding tank when they don't get any mixing from the trailers movement?
Is there one type of chemical that will work better under these circumstances?
Thank you,
RA
RA,
In my opinion, the best choices for tank treatments are the biological ones. These are bacterial or enzyme in nature, and are very effective at liquefying waste, which is even more important when you RV stops moving for a while. It's will also be a big help if your parents get used to using more water each time they flush (they aren't dry camping, after all) and wait until the tank is very close to full before emptying it. That will help give the treatment more time to work, and should keep things flowing smoothly. Choosing a toilet tissue that breaks down fully will also be a big help. If in doubt, always do the jar test: take a sheet or 2 of your TP, put it in a jar 1/2 full of water and give it a shake. Safe TP will dissolve readily; bad stuff won't and shouldn't be used in an RV.
Dear Mark,
Can you suggest a GPS system made specifically for large motorhomes? I currently use Streets & Trips but it has gotten me in trouble many times because it does not know how big I am…'eg', when needing to fuel up, when to stay off small roads, etc.
Norman E. Palmer
Norman E. Palmer
Take a look at CoPilot Live. They make versions for laptop use and also for many PDAs. They have a unique "RV Routing" function that takes into account the larger vehicle size, overhead clearance limits, and turn radius. It's a lot more sophisticated program, so the cost is quite a bit higher, but it may be what you are looking for. You can learn more about CoPilot Live at www.alk.com/copilot.
Dear Mark,
I'm writing to ask about the tires of the RV. I just replaced my RV with tires my son got from his shop. They were made in China and he said that they were not expensive. My worry is the PSI's of the tire. They recommend to put 110 psi in the tire. Is this what I should do or should I put in what my old tires recommend, 85 psi? I'm really worried that too much pressure will heat the tire up and blow.
Thanks,
Ernie
Ernie,
The recommended maximum pressure rating on any tire is just that: the maximum pressure the tire is designed to operate safely at. Tires also have a maximum load rating. Exceeding either rating is dangerous, but as long as you are under the max ratings, you are OK, tire–wise. However, there are other considerations. First, any time you replace tires with ones that have higher load or inflation ratings, it is critical to be sure that the wheel or rim is also rated to be safe at the higher load or pressure. Most wheels have a max load rating and pressure rating stamped on them. Second, just because the tire can handle 110 PSI doesn't necessarily mean that you should run at that pressure. Most tire manufacturers publish load/inflation charts that specify the proper inflation pressure for the load that the tire is carrying. On lightly loaded tires, the proper inflation pressure will be well below the max tire rating. The first step would be to weigh the rig, and then adjust tire pressure to the manufacturer's recommended value for the load on the tire. You'll get the best ride and the longest tread life this way.
Happy Trails!!
Mark
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Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program.
Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582.
