Camping Corner
Continued…
With a little practice it really isn't that difficult. In fact, with a properly set up trailer and tow vehicle, you'll hardly notice you are towing until you get into tight spaces. Just keep in mind that you are now driving a train that's a lot longer and heavier than it was before.
You will notice reduced acceleration, longer stopping distances, lower fuel economy, some blind spots in your mirrors (especially with large trailers) and a much wider turning circle.
The wider turning circle becomes evident when rounding sharp corners. You'll need to make a much wider swing to avoid striking curbs and road signs with the inside edge of your trailer.
Also be aware of the extra length required when changing lanes or passing. Watch your mirrors closely to make sure there's enough room to move over, and always use your turn indicators. Courteous and knowing drivers will flash their headlights at you to indicate there is adequate clearance for you to pass.
When it comes to stopping with a trailer in tow, remember to increase your following distance. Look farther ahead than usual and anticipate your—as well as others'—actions. Your stopping distance will increase dramatically. This is not the time to tailgate. Also keep in mind that after periods of extended brake use, such as long steep descents, the tow vehicle and trailer's brakes are likely to be hot and suffer from a loss of effectiveness. Try to stay off the brakes and use your lower transmission gears and engine's compression braking to control downhill speeds.
Backing Up
Even for the experienced, driving a trailer in reverse can be challenging. The best advice is to plan ahead and limit the amount of backing you will have to do. Leave yourself plenty of room, and if you have to turn while backing up, back to your left (driver's side). This way you'll be better able to see the trailer's movements. Also remember the trailer will go in the opposite direction of the tow vehicle when backing.
Most drivers simply turn their heads and look through the rear window to see the trailer when backing. If visibility is a problem, an alternate method is to face forward and watch your mirrors, and place one hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. If you want the trailer to move right, move your steering hand to the right. If you want the trailer to move left, move your hand to the left. Try both methods and decide which is most comfortable. One important tip to remember when backing: Move SLOWLY! And if the trailer starts to head off in the wrong direction, just stop, pull ahead, straighten out and try again. It's much easier to start over than to make many huge corrections as you zig–zag across the parking lot.
It's essential to have a spotter standing to the side of the rear of the trailer, displaying a set of pre–arranged hand signals to the driver, when it comes to backing a trailer. A little help from a partner is always a good idea when making tight maneuvers.
Level Best
Trailers tow best when level. Simply adjust the hitchball height on your tow vehicle by using dropped or raised drawbars, or moving your adjustable hitch.
Weight distribution can dramatically affect trailer handling, too. Make sure the trailer is properly loaded front–to–rear and side–to–side. Follow the manufacturer's loading instructions. For pop–up and travel trailers, most cargo is usually placed in storage cabinets located forward of the axles. Adding weight forward of the axles can increase the tongue weight, which is the amount of weight the trailer exerts on the hitchball of the tow vehicle. This is still a better option than loading the rear end of a trailer. Overloading the rear can lead to lighter tongue weights, especially with smaller trailers that are more susceptible to changes in weight distribution. Lighter tongue weights can create or exacerbate negative road handling characteristics such as trailer sway. Remember, always be aware of the total weight you are adding to the trailer. Do not exceed manufacturer's recommendations for cargo capacities or the trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR).
SWAY CONTROL
Travel trailers often use sway controls. These usually mount to the drawbar near the hitchball and reach to a point on the trailer tongue. A damping device (such as a shock absorber or friction pad) is used to control motion and keep sway in check.
Passing trucks, gusting crosswinds, steep downhill grades, and excessive speed can cause sway. Slow down before approaching downhill sections and areas of gusty wind. To reduce the tendency of a travel trailer to sway, keep tongue weight between 10 to 15 percent of the total towed weight. Keep the tow vehicle's tires and trailer tires inflated to the maximum cold pressure stamped on their sidewalls. On large or heavy trailers, it's usually a good idea to install a sway–control device.
If your trailer does starts to sway, don't panic, /slow down/, but don't stomp on the brakes. Keep the steering wheel pointed straight ahead as much as possible while maintaining control of the vehicle. Because of your natural reaction time lag, counter–steering can actually increase sway. If the trailer has electric brakes, use the hand control to apply them; this can help keep the tow vehicle and trailer aligned. Gently apply brake–pedal pressure. Stop and pull off the road as soon as safely possible and check tire pressures, sway control and spring bar adjustments, and look for cargo weight shifts or mechanical failures. Until the problem has been corrected, keep your speed down to maintain full control. Keep in mind that one of the greatest factors involved in the inducement of trailer sway, other than incorrect weight distribution, is excessive speed.
BRAKE CONTROLLERS
To properly operate the electric brake system on your camping or travel trailer, you will need to install a brake controller in your tow vehicle. Many brands are available, but all work on the same basic principle. An amplified electric signal is sent to the trailer's brakes (via the electric brake controller) when the driver depresses the tow vehicle's brake pedal.
The trailer brake onset (how fast the brakes come on) and power (how hard the brakes come on) can be adjusted at the controller mounted in the cab. These independent brake system adjustments allow the driver to customize the braking force to match the weight and size of different trailers or differing road and weather conditions for safer towing. In addition, the trailer's electric brakes can be applied independently—without applying the tow vehicle's brakes—through the in–cab controller. This feature allows the driver to use the trailer's brakes to help bring mild trailer sway under control.
TIRES AND WHEELS
It's easy to forget to check tow vehicle tire and trailer tire pressure, but these should be considered your lifelines to the road. Tire failure is the cause of many towing accidents. Under–inflation is a prime cause of trailer–tire failure because the excessive sidewall flexing creates overheating in the tire's sidewall structure and can lead to failures. It is recommended you maintain proper cold tire pressure on trailer tires, as indicated on the tire sidewalls or the trailer manufacturer's certification label. Always check air pressure when tires are cold, before moving the trailer. Tires heat up and air pressure increases after traveling only a short distance.
Wheel nuts must be tightened to a specific torque rating—too loose or too tight can be a bad thing. This is properly done with a torque wrench, not the air–impact wrench your tire shop probably uses. If they are too tight, you may not be able to manually remove a wheel with hand tools if you have a roadside incident. Your automobile owner's manual or the wheel manufacturer (in the case of custom wheels) should be able to furnish the proper tightening settings and procedures. And always retighten the nuts on all wheels after the first 25 miles of driving. Tandem axles on trailers do not steer or flex as much as a single axle does, so their wheels tend to flex and loosen more than single–axle trailers. Check and retighten them frequently.
COMMON SENSE
Laws covering such things as trailer brakes, lights, safety chains and licenses vary from state to state. Be sure that your trailer is in full compliance with your state laws. You are also responsible for making sure your trailer meets regulations in the states you are traveling through or visiting.
One of the most often overlooked trailering laws is the one regarding safety chains. The purpose of safety chains, of course, is to keep the trailer from detaching from the tow vehicle while towing. Some trailers come with only one chain, which is only partially beneficial. With two chains, you should cross them to form a cradle. Should the coupler come loose from the hitch ball, the trailer's coupler will likely drop into the cradle, giving the driver better control and chance of minimizing potential damage.
Make sure the coupler matches the hitch ball. The coupler will be stamped with the hitch ball size it will mate with: 17/8 inches, 2 inches or 25/16 inches. If the hitch ball is too small, the coupler will hop off when the trailer bounces up and down on uneven road surfaces. Most couplers either have a locking device that can be activated, or a hole into which you can insert a bolt to keep the coupler from popping open. Make sure you lock the coupler in some way before traveling with your trailer in tow.
Don't forget to securely attach the breakaway trailer brake cable to the tow vehicle's hitch. Usually it can be hooked to the same steel loop on the receiver hitch that the safety chains are hooked to. Make sure to firmly seat the plug in your trailer's electrical harness to the receptacle on your tow vehicle. Then make sure all lights, including turn signals, brakes and backups (if your trailer has them) are operating correctly.
MIRROR, MIRROR
One of the first things you'll learn when you start towing is that your main rearward vision will be from the side mirrors. On most vehicles designed to tow heavy loads, the standard side mirrors should be adequate until trailer width exceeds 8 feet. Extended towing mirrors (available from RV dealerships) are a must–have accessory for the serious trailer camping enthusiast. Vertical mirrors are often the best choice, since they offer a better view of the tow vehicle and trailer wheels. A convex spot mirror on the passenger side helps a lot, too.
PREVENTIVE MAINTENENCE
Always check your trailer lights before you leave home. If they don't work, the most likely cause is dirt or oxidation on the contact points. Be sure that all connector–plug prongs and receptacles, light–bulb sockets, wire splices and ground connections to the trailer are clean and shielded from moisture. During installation or repairs, always melt solder around all wire–to–wire splices, then wrap them tightly with electrical tape or, better still, with marine–grade, heat–shrink tubing to seal out dirt and moisture.
Make it a habit to scrape the prongs clean with a penknife or sandpaper every so often. Try to scrape off any surface deposits in the connector holes with an ice pick, rat–tail file or small piece of sandpaper rolled around a toothpick (be sure the lights are off when you do this, otherwise you could blow a fuse). Then, dab a little grease on the prongs, push the connector together and wrap electrical tape around the crack to keep out dirt and moisture. A little petroleum jelly or light waterproof grease spread on the metal contact surfaces will act as a barrier against air and moisture, retard oxidation, and keep the lights operating longer.
Between trips, keep both plug ends of the wiring harness and receptacle protected from weather and scuffing. To keep dirt from getting into the connections, wrap the plug with a small plastic bag slipped over the top of each half. Use a rubber band around the open end to seal it.
BETTER NOW
Now you have a little better handle on towing your pop–up or travel trailer. Remember, your best friend is practice. Empty parking lots with parking stripes are great for practicing. The nice thing about a vacant parking lot is that you can concentrate on how to move the trailer and not have to worry about hitting anything.
This is also a good time for driver and partner to coordinate their hand signals. When you first work out signals, be sure you can see your assistant—otherwise, the person could be waving frantically, only to find his signals ignored. Working together as a team makes maneuvering a trailer much easier. And always work slowly—the faster you go, the more difficult it becomes.
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TRAILERING SAFETY CHECKLIST
* Check cold tire pressures on the tow vehicle and trailer. Improper inflation can cause tire failure.
*Turn off all propane (or other fuel) sources, and all electric lights and accessories.
*All equipment and gear inside the travel trailer should be properly secured.
*Make sure you are towing the trailer on the level.
*Make sure the lug nuts on the tow vehicle and trailer are tight.
*Be sure the coupler is secured with a nut and bolt or other locking device.
*Be sure the trailer jack (and all jack stands on a travel trailer) are raised and locked in place.
*Make sure that the trailer wiring harness is properly and securely connected.
*Have a partner stand behind your trailer and double–check that all your lights are functioning correctly.
*Be sure the safety chains and emergency brake cable are in place and properly secured.
*With the trailer hooked up and ready to tow, make sure all mirrors are properly adjusted.
*Confirm your brake controller's settings are appropriate for the trailer and the road and weather conditions.
*Test the trailer's brakes to make sure they are working properly before you get out on the open road.
Go Camping!
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