Mark… My Words
I recently purchased a class–B RV. It is a 1997 Coachman on a Ford chassis. I would like an owner’s manual for it. Can you tell me where to look for one?
Thanks, Annette
This question comes up again and again. It seems a lot of used RVs are sold sans manuals. Unfortunately, finding a set of manuals for an older rig can be something of a long–term research project! Start off by contacting the manufacturer of the RV and, also, the manufacturer of the chassis. (With motor homes, these are typically two different companies.) If they can’t help you, try posting a request or two on some of the Internet RV forums (RV.net, Irv2.com, Escapees.com, rvusa.com, etc.). It is also worthwhile to check on eBay, as there are a lot of older maintenance manuals and shop manuals sold there. Be patient. It may take a while for the manual you are looking for to show up. If all else fails, you can purchase one of the general RV maintenance manuals. While they won’t have brand–specific info, they will have info on most of the common RV systems and appliances.
Mark,
I have a Pursuit class–A motorhome with an Onan generator. As we did not use it much last year, I was remiss in periodically running the generator. In preparing for a late fall vacation I was not able to get the generator to start. The gas is reaching the inlet to the carb. I have checked the fuses, cleaned the sparkplugs, removed and cleaned the carb. It is stored for the winter, but come spring I’m sure the problem will still be there. Suggestions!!
Theodore
It sounds like you have covered a lot of the usual problem areas when dealing with a no–start condition. You should check to be sure that you are actually getting a spark and, also, that the choke is operating. Most generators have an automatic choke, and the choke butterfly should be closed when starting unless the generator is at operating temperature. If you don’t have a spark, make sure that the oil level is where it belongs, as most generators will kill the spark if the crankcase oil level drops below a safe level. Check for any disconnected wiring, and also make sure the remote–start panel connector is fully seated (if so equipped). If you have spark, fuel to the carb, and a functioning choke, but the unit still will not start, it may be time to take it to an Onan service facility. There are a lot of other issues that could be preventing it from starting, like a faulty circuit board or other electrical problem.
Mark:
I have been trying to find out details about using generators during stays in unserviced parks. I have found references to certain hours that vary by park, and noise limitations that are not fully defined. I have a 30 ft. 2006 Montana TT, so a built–in Onan–caliber generator is not a real option. I currently own a small two–stroke generator that I would like to bring with us when we cross the country this summer.
I read that national parks have a noise limitation (is it 60 db?), but I can"t find what distance from the generator that limitation applies to. (A commercial jet can be 60 db if you get far enough away!) Also, are there any restrictions that would prevent me from using my two–stroke generator (smoke and all) in National Parks that allow generators? Are there any special rules for California (or any other state for that matter) regarding two–stroke generators? I have spent hours on the NPS site and elsewhere, but I can't find this information. Can you help?
Thank You,
Gordon
The National Park Service (NPS) noise limit for generators is 60 dba at 50' from the source. Actually, the Code of Federal Regulations, Title 36, Volume 1, states (in part) that"The following are prohibited:
(1) Operating motorized equipment or machinery such as an electric generating plant, motor vehicle, motorized toy, or an audio device, such as a radio, television set, tape deck or musical instrument, in a manner: (i) That exceeds a noise level of 60 decibels measured on the A–weighted scale at 50 feet; or, if below that level, nevertheless; (ii) makes noise which is unreasonable, considering the nature and purpose of the actor's conduct, location, time of day or night, purpose for which the area was established, impact on park users, and other factors that would govern the conduct of a reasonably prudent person under the circumstances."
I’m not able to find any specific restrictions within the NPS regarding 2–stroke generators, but I suspect that the"impact on park users" clause above might apply to exhaust smoke. I do know that the sale of outdoor products utilizing 2–stroke engines is no longer legal in some states, and many public lakes and waterways have been trying to ban 2–stroke outboards and jet skis for years.
There are a number of quiet alternatives available, like the Honda EU series generators, and you’d probably be happier in the long run with a generator that is quiet and smog–free. I’m sure the neighbors would be happier, anyway! It’s also important to observe"generator hours" anywhere you are parked. Most parks restrict operation of generators of any type to specific hours during the day.
Hi Mark
My question is, when traveling from New York south on 95 we encounter signs regarding hazmat. Going into the Chesapeake Bay Tunnel etc. We take the alternate route yet we see other RVers going into the tunnels & bridges. We have a 30ft. travel trailer and don’t want to be ticketed. What are the rules for use of bridges & tunnels for us?
Thank You,
Doug
About the only time bridge and tunnel hazmat restrictions affect RVers is when the restrictions apply to transporting propane cylinders or tanks. Most tunnels have very clear signs well in advance of the"commit point" detailing exactly what the restrictions are. Here is an example taken from the published restrictions for the Fort McHenry Tunnel (I–95) and the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel.
“Code of Maryland Regulations (COMAR) govern the transport of hazardous materials across Maryland toll facilities. Under these regulations, vehicles carrying bottled propane gas in excess of 10 pounds per container (maximum of 10 containers), bulk gasoline, explosives, significant amounts of radioactive materials, and other hazardous materials are prohibited from using the Fort McHenry Tunnel (I–95) or the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel (I–895). The Francis Scott Key Bridge (I–695, the Baltimore Beltway) is a convenient alternative route for crossing Baltimore's Harbor."
As stated, this restriction would apply to just about all RVs carrying propane. Most interstate highway guides document tunnel restrictions, and most state welcome center maps also list restricted bridges and tunnels. There is always a bypass available, so it’s best to just avoid the restricted area and take the alternate route if you have any doubt at all.
Mark,
We have had a Sunline Solaris trailer & now a Fleetwood Flair. Both have had Thetford heads. They both seem to clog up regularly even though I empty frequently & even backflush the new Fleetwood. It seems to require some serious prodding with a"swizzle" stick. Any ideas or suggestions?
ARTMAN
Thetford toilets don’t have a built–in clog generator, at least not in my experience, so something else is amiss. Although most RV toilets are plumbed with a straight drop of pipe directly to the top of the tank, a few are offset far enough to require a section of mostly horizontal pipe to reach the tank. These installations are definitely more clog–prone. Either way, there are a few things you can do to help reduce the problem. First, use enough water each time you flush to ensure that the waste is transported to the tank. Use the"add water" pedal or lever to partially fill the bowl before depositing, ummm…"solids." The extra water will help carry everything along quickly to the tank. Second, use a toilet paper that actually dissolves. Either buy RV toilet paper or pick a brand that breaks down fully. If in doubt, do the TP test: Take a sheet or two of your TP, put it in a jar half–full of water, tighten the lid, and give it a shake. Safe TP will dissolve readily; bad stuff won't and shouldn't be used in your RV! It may also help to use TP sparingly. Finally, keep the black tank dump valve closed! Black water contains a lot of … well… let’s call them"solids" again. If you were to leave the black water dump valve open while hooked to a sewer connection, these solids will build up in your tank and then dry into a disgusting form of concrete. Over time, a black tank can become partially or completely blocked, leading to a highly nasty cleaning job or complete tank replacement. To avoid this, always let the black water build up until the tank is at least 1/3 full before you dump it. Waiting to dump the tank keeps all those solids in suspension, and the quick rush of fluid out of the tank when it is dumped helps carry most of the solids out. Whenever it's convenient, try to dump the black tank after traveling. The motion of the rig on the road will mix up the contents nicely and help break down the solids.
––TTYL!
Mark
|
|
Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program.
Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582.
