Destined to Travel
Wisconsin's Lakeside Lady
By Kimberly Button, continued from Diamond Club eNewsletter
Era of Opulence
Once, Playboy bunnies strutted their stuff at the Grand Geneva and Hugh Hefner walked the halls. Was he already in the bathrobe–wearing stage by then? The resort opened in the swinging '60s as The Lake Geneva Playboy Club Hotel. Small town or not, this resort was "on the map." Headliners such as Bob Hope, Ella Fitzgerald and Sammy Davis Jr. performed in the resort's nightclub.
There was golf or snow skiing, depending on the season, together with pretty girls, good food and plenty to drink – what more could a guy require?
But the times were changing and the bright lights of Los Angeles beckoned to Hefner. He sold the resort in 1981, but I've noticed he kept his bathrobe.
Lake Geneva's Evolution
It was bye–bye bunny ears, hello families. The current owners have transformed the resort into a family–friendly place, while retaining the high–end atmosphere.
You need not be an expert in architecture to recognize the building style. The overhanging roofs and natural earth tones all reflect Frank Lloyd Wright's prairie–style school of design. The long, low structure blends neatly into the landscape with its rolling hills. Dark wood is combined with stone to produce a rustic, although sophisticated, exterior.
At Lake Geneva today, 5–year–old snow bunnies in pink snowsuits and knit caps have replaced the Playboy bunnies on Mountain Top, the ski resort situated on the property. You see baby strollers everywhere, while teen snowboarders fly down the double–black–diamond slope as only fearless 14–year–olds can do. Extra large windows in the chalet allow comfortable viewing of all the action with hot drinks and warm snacks close at hand.
We visited during the final week of December. While there was no snow on the ground during our visit, Mountain Top was able to make its own white stuff, thus a half dozen slopes were available. There are 18 slopes in total. Lessons are available. Ice skating and tobogganing are two additional cold weather activities at the Grand Geneva.
For those making plans now to visit at the holidays, the resort has an annual celebration called Christmas in the Country, with a lengthy schedule of special events. For 2006, there were intricate scenes from the "Nutcracker" throughout the lobby. Assembled with painstaking care, youngsters were mesmerized by the detail. I can imagine they will not soon forget their Christmas resort experience. Outside, vignettes from The "Twelve Days of Christmas" twinkled in red, green and white lights. Lords were a–leaping and pipers were piping, as the song goes. You need not stay at the resort to partake of their holiday events.
Luxurious Lake Mansions
Hefner wasn't the only person to appreciate the peaceful lake setting. The first large mansion on the shore was built in 1871, and construction continues to this day – although only those with deep pockets need apply.
We took a drive around the lake perimeter to check out the historic homes. I'm not prone to bouts of house–envy, but could see how others might wish for such splendid lodgings. Grand is the word to describe these structures. Early on, the community began earning its two nicknames: "The Newport of the West" and "The Hamptons of the Midwest."
Stone Manor, an Italianate palace with a 250–foot veranda and vast lawn, is visible from several vantage points, including downtown. When built, Stone Manor featured gold–plated fixtures, a basement bowling alley and a third–floor miniature golf course – extraordinary by any standards and a kid's dream come true.
The estate was constructed in 1900–01 by a gentleman named Otto Young, who made his fortune buying real estate along the now–famous State Street in Chicago. Stone Manor remained a single–family home until 1939.
The summer cottage, which became known as Black Point, had 13 bedrooms, (hence stretching the term cottage!) and 20 rooms overall. Its distinctive four–story tower stands out from other, more traditional buildings.
Black Point was designed to accommodate a large family, as a summer retreat. Over the years, the property has expanded to 100 acres, along with a thousand feet of wooded lakefront.
Originally Black Point was reached only by boat. The guests were brought over by steamboat and then returned a week or more later. Black Point is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Main Street, 1880
Housing a treasure trove of information and artifacts of the Lake Geneva area dating back to the 1880s, the Geneva Lake Museum will keep history buffs happy. Take a step back in time via the Museum's authentic "Main Street," depicting days gone by. The museum keeps shorter hours in the winter, so it's best to confirm hours in advance.
Shopping is always an option during colder weather. Main Street Memories has a variety of nostalgic games, toys and old–fashioned candy. Fleming's in downtown features apparel for both men and women, along with a selection of handcrafted items from Ireland. The store We Love Dolls, says it all.
The stately Riviera Ballroom rests on a prominent spot on the water. She, too, is grand – an elegant lady keeping watch over the village on one side and the lake on the other. This civic center has been the gateway to summer fun and a backdrop for winter carnivals. For residents, it's a storehouse of special memories, from high school prom time to weddings and more. I was happy to see this historic structure survived the wrecking ball.
Even the public library has an attractive location on the shoreline, with plenty of lake views. Land was donated by a wealthy family, with the stipulation that the library remain forever on this spot.
Cold–Weather Crafts and Pastimes
Every winter the nation's top snow sculptors convene in Lake Geneva for the U.S. National Snow Sculpting Championships, building their three–ton creations in the shadow of the proud Riviera. These creations are the centerpiece of the Winterfest, a popular event held every year during the first weekend in February. Working from smaller models, the artwork gradually takes shape.
The event is a "labor of love" for the participants, who come from as far as Alaska. At times, they work in harsh conditions over a three–day period. The championships offer no cash prizes, just bragging rights. The biggest crowds arrive Saturday morning to review the finished art and take part in judging the People's Choice award. Team Wisconsin's meticulous sculpture depicting a giraffe nuzzling her baby was selected as the top finisher in the 2006 contest.
Winterfest also offers ice skating, horse–drawn carriage rides and the Great Meltdown sale, sponsored by local merchants.
Ice fishing is another winter activity available at Lake Geneva. Professional fishing guides will set you up with gear, bait and ice shack rentals.
If you come in March, try to take in the Nielson Enterprises SnoCross Grand Finale, Championship Snowmobile Racing, at Grand Geneva Resort, March 17–19. It is strongly advised to reserve ahead. The annual stop on the World Power Sports Association's tour promises plenty of up close, high–flying snowmobile action. The track is laid out on Grand Geneva's Mountain Top ski hill and allows for both indoor viewing and exceptional outdoor seating in the grandstands.
When you visit Wisconsin, you'll find that cold weather isn't the time to hibernate. Gear up, find your favorite comfortable hat and get in on the action.
For More Information
Grand Geneva Resort
7036 Grand Geneva Way
Lake Geneva, WI 53147
(888) 392–8000
(262) 248–8811
www.grandgeneva.com.
Lake Geneva Area Convention & Visitors Bureau
201 Wrigley Drive
Lake Geneva, WI 53147
(262) 248–4416
www.lakegenevawi.com.
Black Hawk Campgrounds
Blackhawk Road
Milton, WI 53563
(866) 652–2586
(608) 868–2586
www.blackhawkcampgrounds.com.
Country View Campground
S. 110 W 26400 Craig Ave.
Mukwonago, WI 53149
(262) 662–3654
Happy Acres Kampground
22230 45th St.
Bristol, WI 53104
(262) 857–7373
Open May 1– October 1
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Note: Call ahead to verify season dates.
Please consult your 2007 Woodall's North American Campground Directory for a complete listing of campgrounds along your route.
Appeared in March/April 2007 issue of Woodall's Midwest RV Traveler
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