 Mark… My Words
Do
you have questions about RV technical issues, the RV lifestyle
or
RVs in general? Ask Mark!
Hi Mark,
I have an '89 Bounder 34' class A in literally showroom condition. I also have the great fortune of a leaking gasoline tank. It is a very small leak, and does not hamper my distance range, but I need to fix it, of course, for safety reasons as well as EPA and all that stuff. I have tried searching the net for the part with no luck, all the local repair services say it can't be found, and Fleetwood keeps running me around in circles. Patches don't work anymore, and I am becoming slightly frustrated. Please help a rookie traveler !!!!!
Many thanks,
Mark
Hi Mark. We don't only share names, we share a similar problem: I have a 1989 Southwind with a leaky gas tank! While I haven't repaired mine yet (the rig is not currently in use), I have had tanks repaired in the past, so it's not hopeless. The first step is to locate a welding service in your area that has some tank repair experience. Then, drain as much fuel as possible from the tank and remove the tank from the vehicle. Most vehicle repair shops can do this for you if you're not interested in the do-it-yourself approach. The welding shop should be able to pinpoint the leak and, using special procedures to deal with the presence of potentially explosive fumes, repair the tank. These leaks are often in a seam, and that's why external patches are a poor solution. Generally, repairing a large tank is a lot less expensive than replacing it. Please don't try to weld it yourself, as large tank + gasoline fumes + spark = BOOM!
Hi Mark,
I own a 1988 gulfstream 35 ft.class "A" motor home In real good shape and mechanicly kept up, with a rochester 4 bbl. carb, that I just had rebuilt. My question is, will I have any problems climbing the mts. with this 454 engine? This engine has 2 smog pumps, factory headers that dont leak yet. I'll be towing a dolly with a Dodge Caravan. The coach runs great uses no oil. Some people say I should install an electric fuel pump, but I want YOUR opinion if possible.
Thank you,
Neil Richards
You should be fine in the mountains, just don't expect to climb them at 70 MPH. The best way to tackle a tough grade is to downshift and if you have a tachometer, shoot for around 3000–3300 RPM. That should be close to the torque peak for that big V–8, and is your best use of the power you have without overly stressing the engine. As you climb, watch the temperature gauges. If the engine starts to run overly hot, back off a bit on the throttle until the temperature isn't rising any more. Take your time, and you'll be fine. Most carburetor–equipped class A motorhomes already will have an electric booster pump in the fuel tank, so you probably won't need to worry about that. Once you reach the top, you'll likely have a downgrade to deal with. Similar rules apply for going downhill. Downshift and use the engine to provide some braking effort. Keep your speed down, and don't ride the brakes. If you can't maintain a comfortable speed without constant brake pressure, slow down further and downshift again. The real key here is to start down the hill slowly… it's easier on your nerves and allows you many more options to control your speed. Never be in a hurry!
Hi Mark,
I have a 1997 Flair, 32 foot, motorhome, with just the couch slide. I e–mailed Fleetwood to ask them if I could install a Surflo 5.7 water pump without any problems. the reason I am looking to install a new pump is ours is located right under the bed under our heads. When we flush the stool during the night, we get the pump running noise and it wakes up the other person. The way the literature reads, is the Surflo 5.7 is a quiet operational pump and it requires 10 to 15 amp service. I e–mailed Fleetwood and they told me to check with a Flair dealer to see if this change would work. I told Fleetwood that I didn't think there would be anyone at the dealership that would remember that long ago how the flair was made. Fleetwoods answer was they wouldn't advise me to make any changes from the original equipment. The directions on the new pump advise that the wiring and pump switch be able to handle minimum of 10, but up to 15 amps of power. Can you help???
Thanks
Kay Perry.
Been there, done that! Those new pumps are great, but they draw a lot more amperage than the older stock pumps. Your rig was probably equipped with the standard pump that draws around 5 amps, and the wiring for that pump was sized accordingly. If you just replace the old pump with the new one, chances are it will draw way too much current through the existing wiring, which can overheat the wires, fry the pump switches, or blow fuses. When I installed a new pump in my rig, I ran new, heavy gauge wire (12 gauge) directly from the 12V fuse panel and used a 12v relay at the pump to control power to the pump. In effect, the existing pump switch now energizes the relay, and the relay switches power to the pump directly from the heavier gauge circuit I added. Works like a charm! Check out this installation manual on the Aquatec pump manufacturer's website. It has a clear drawing in it that shows how the relay is installed, www.aquatec.com/images/IMI152b.pdf. If you aren't sure how to do this, most RV repair shops should be able to handle it.
Hi Mark,
I have a problem with my batteries going dry. Isn't this usually caused by overcharging? Or could the problem be the batteries themselves? If it is overcharging, it is occurring while the motorhome is connected to shore power. Is there an easy way to tell if the converter is overcharging? If it is, can it be corrected or must I just buy a new converter?
Many thanks for all the good answers you give us RVers.
Do the batteries seem healthy? Do they hold a charge? If so, then the problem probably isn't being caused by defective batteries. How long does it take for your batteries to dry out? It's normal to have to add some water every two to four weeks if you are plugged in all the time and have one of the typical "dumb" converter/chargers. If the batteries are losing significant amounts of water in just a few days, then that's not normal. Excessive water consumption is usually caused by too high a float–charge voltage. With the converter plugged in and stabilized (let it run overnight), check the voltage at the batteries with a digital voltmeter. The float voltage should be between 13.0 and 13.5 volts. If it's higher than that, your converter may need adjustment or replacement. Some units have an adjustment for the float voltage, others are non adjustable. If the voltage is off, and you can't adjust it, replace the converter. If you need to buy a new converter, spend a little more and get a replacement that is a "smart" 3–stage charger. These units will not only charge your batteries quickly and completely, they will really reduce water consumption when you are parked and plugged in.
Hi Mark,
I purchased my first RV last spring, a 2003 37' Bounder diesel pusher. I am getting conflicting stories about winter use of the vehicle. An insurance adjuster friend of mine states he stayed in an RV park in Buffalo for two months where the temperature fell as low as –20F. He said he had no freezing problems and only took the one precaution of wrapping the water supply hose with heat tape. Service personal I have spoken with at dealers are skeptical about using the plumbing system much below 25F, a 45 degree gap. Can I safely use the motor home in seriously cold weather?
Thanks,
Keith
Well, it really depends a lot on the construction of the RV. A unit that has insulated and heated tank compartments, arctic insulation, and a really, really big propane tank, might be able to function at –20F, but the average RV? Doubtful! If your RV has exposed tanks or plumbing underneath it, you'll be struggling at 20 above. Even if your RV has enclosed tanks, you'll need to burn a lot of propane to keep everything warm enough to prevent any freeze–ups. Besides, it seems like the best use of the RV when it's –20F is to take you to some place that's warmer!
Seriously, if you need to use the RV in temperatures that will remain substantially below freezing, your safest course is to winterize the water system.
Finally, I just had to pass along this suggestion I received from a reader:
Mark, I have never RV'd but am a 20+ year boater. Winterizing the potable water system is similar & a big PITA. We found a great technique… Instead of RV antifreeze we used cheap vodka. No significant difference in cost & the de–winterizing parties were great !!!!
Bud, N.
Topsail Beach, NC
Thanks, Bud! I'm not sure how effective vodka is at protecting your pipes, but I'd sure like an invite to your next de–winterizing party!
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Please remember, material will be edited. Because of the large volume of material and correspondence submitted, individual replies will not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of your material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of the Diamond Club newsletter in the Mark, My Words column. The Mark, My Words column also appears in Escapees magazine, a bi–monthly publication of the Escapees RV Club. For more information visit www.escapees.com/magazine
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Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer’s Boot Camp program.
Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582.
