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Dear Mark,
My husband and I are new to RV world. We have just a tiny 24 ft Cherokee travel trailer. We love it! Now when we store the trailer for winter outside we know we need to winterize the pipes etc but do we need to cover up vents on side and top of trailer? Do we need to cover up the air/heat unit too?
Await your response, Erin
Mark says…
While it is not mandatory to cover the A/C unit and vents on the rig, it sure doesn't hurt. Also, be sure to block all points of possible access by mice if you are in an area where they thrive. You can use steel wool to fill gaps that might admit rodents to your rig, and make sure all compartment doors are tightly closed. You should leave a couple of windows or vents open slightly to allow for some air circulation.
Dear Mark,
We have a wonderful 2004 Rialta and are grateful for the gas mileage! We live in Western North Carolina and want to use our RV occasionally during the winter months. Do you have any suggestions for "hibernating" the vehicle without draining the pipes and "retiring" it for the whole winter?
Donna and Grant, Asheville, NC
Mark says…
If you can store it inside a garage where it won't freeze, that would be ideal. Otherwise, if your climate is not too harsh, you may be able to provide a heat source inside the rig to keep it from freezing. Unfortunately, that won't guarantee that a cold snap doesn't trip you up. The only sure way to protect the rig's plumbing is by winterizing. What some seasoned winter RVers do is winterize the rig's fresh water system, and then they simply don't use it when traveling in winter months. They use bottled water to flush the toilet, and for cooking and washing. RV antifreeze is added to holding tanks to prevent a freeze–up. As you can imagine, winter camping is an art that requires a certain amount of sacrifice and practice. If it was my rig, and I was only using it once a month or less during the winter, I'd drain and winterize the water system before the first freeze and either do without the fresh water system on those shorter winter trips, or de–winterize it each time before heading out for a longer trip.
Dear Mark,
We are planning to full time rv in the near future. What can we do to fully insulate? Piping & under carriage (close in) not skirting or under pinning. We are open to any advice or suggestions. We've also read about others using ceramic heaters instead of their propane heaters, because of having to refill the tanks so often. Just need advice over how to stay warm in 30 degree temps.
Thanks, Bill & Judy
Vilonia,AR
Mark says…
In most cases, as long as you are living in the rig, and keeping it warm, you shouldn't have problems until the temperature falls significantly below freezing. Most RV plumbing is run inside the heated areas of the rig, and often just keeping some cabinet doors open to allow warm air to circulate will keep your plumbing flowing. Rigs with enclosed tanks do better in colder weather, as most designs provide some heat from the furnace to the tank compartments. If your tanks are exposed, you can add insulation around your holding tanks, or add aftermarket tank heaters, or simply head a little further south to escape the really frigid weather.
Catalytic or radiant propane heaters are great for reducing propane usage, do not require 12V power to operate, and are very safe if properly installed and operated. These heaters do require you to provide additional ventilation to provide combustion air and to help prevent moisture problems. Unvented propane heaters produce an astounding amount of water vapor… about 1 ounce of water for each 1000 BTU/Hr of heat produced. Keeping a window cracked and a roof vent slightly open will usually prevent condensation problems and provide adequate combustion air. It is also imperative to have a working carbon monoxide (CO) detector/alarm in your rig to protect you against possible exposure to CO should an unvented heater malfunction.
Dear Mark,
l live in Quebec, Canada were the winters are cold.
l would like to purchase a Monaco or Travel Supreme diesel pusher between 2002 to 2006. l will travel about two months out of the year and the rest of the time l want to live in it year around.
- Is it possible and or probable for winter.
- lf so what are the precautions l should take.
- lf you know anybody who has or is doing this could you please get them to drop me a line.
Thank You for your help, l always enjoy reading your comments.
Ken
Mark says…
Living in an RV in really cold climates can be a challenge. Even the best rigs are nowhere near as well insulated as a house. If you can, order your rig with the manufacturer's arctic package, which should include dual pane windows, upgraded insulation, and larger furnaces. Holding tank heaters will also be a worthwhile addition. If you will be sitting in one place through the winter, adding skirting around the underside of the RV will help a lot by keeping cold air from circulating underneath the rig. Insulate and heat–tape your fresh water hose, and keep your sewer hose stowed until you are ready to dump. For more tips on surviving the winter in an RV, do a search on "Winter RVing" using google, or any other internet search engine. You'll turn up a lot of sites with tips and suggestions. A great example is this article on the Workers on Wheels site:
Dear Mark,
My husband accidentally used windshield fluid with antifreeze to initially winterize our trailer. (Being color blind didn't help but as he said "He can read.") When I noticed that the color was wrong, we discovered what had been used. We flushed it out and then winterized with the correct antifreeze. My question is "How safe is it to use now and what might we do to be sure it is safe?"
Thanks, Issie
Mark says…
That's a tough one… The good news is that most windshield washer fluid contains only soap or surfactants, ammonia, methanol, and water. The methanol is the primary toxic ingredient, but it is soluble in water, so it can be flushed out. Ditto for the soap and ammonia. Flush the entire system repeatedly with clean water to get rid as much of the washer fluid residue as possible. Sanitize the system by preparing a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and ¼ cup of Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite solution). Pour one gallon of this solution into the fresh water tank for each 15 gallons of tank capacity. Top off the tank with fresh water, and then turn on the water pump. Open each faucet and let it run until all air has been released from the pipes and entire fresh water system is filled. You should be able to smell chlorine strongly at each faucet. Allow this to stand for three hours or more, then drain and flush the tank and system with potable fresh water. To remove any taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart vinegar to five gallons water, add to the fresh water tank, and circulate through the plumbing system. Allow this solution to remain overnight or longer, then drain tank and again flush the system thoroughly with potable water. That should leave your fresh water system in good shape.
Do you have a question for Mark?
Please submit your question via e–mail to woodalls@escapees.com. Questions should be about RV technical issues, general RV operation or RV lifestyle. Please remember, material will be edited. Because of the large volume of material and correspondence submitted, individual replies will not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of your material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of the Diamond Club newsletter in the Mark, My Words column. The Mark, My Words column also appears in Escapees magazine, a bi–monthly publication of the Escapees RV Club. For more information visit www.escapees.com/magazine
Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program.
Founded in 1978, the Escapees RV Club provides a total support network for Rvers that includes a wide variety of opportunities for fun, adventure, and education. CHAPTERS There are 51 chapters across the U.S., Canada, and Mexico that offer local luncheons and rallies within 150 miles of home. Everyone is welcome to attend. HOPs Theme–related outings and adventures held across the country. ESCAPADES Five–day events, Escapades offer over 60 seminars and workshops to educate, entertain, and enhance the fun and use of RVs. PARKS Our RV park system offers short–term, long–term, and home–base parking options. MAIL SERVICE The best mail–forwarding service in the country. Members can personalize their mail delivery receiving only the mail they want when they want. PLUS MUCH MORE! A complete listing of all Escapees events, and a comprehensive list of member benefits is found at www.escapees.com.
Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582.
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