Dear Mark, Would you be able to help me in how to go about handling a lemon law transaction? We have a new 2007 motor home and have the vehicle back to the dealer 3 times and to the manufacturer once trying to get items corrected and to date everything is still not working. They refuse to compensate us for any down time. They have had the motor home this time since Aug. 8,2006 and to date we still do not have it back. We have had to cancel and or change vacations because of this and according to the dealer and the manufacturer that is our problem. We just do not know where to start. Can you please be of some assistance? Thank You, Edith and David Hinkle Mark says… The first step is to determine what vehicles your state’s lemon law covers, and what your state’s minimum requirements are for filing a claim. Lemon law statutes vary widely from state to state. A good place to start is with either your local Better Business Bureau (BBB), or with the BBB’s lemon law page at www.lemonlaw.bbb.org. They can assist you with filing a claim, and have resources to help you research your state’s laws. Alternatively, many state Department of Motor Vehicles, or licensing/titling agencies will have lemon law pamphlets available to assist you. It is generally not necessary to involve a lawyer at this stage, but you may have to consult with one as your claim progresses. Be aware that some states do not cover recreational vehicles at all, and other states view them differently from passenger vehicles. Be sure to document, document, document! Keep copies of every receipt, make notes of every phone call to the dealers and service people, and make a list of all the problems and what was done (or not done) to fix them. I hope you are successful in getting this all resolved so that you can start enjoying your RV instead of fixing it! Dear Mark, Your response to the inquiry from Tom Smith stated that you should never operate the refrigerator when "it is significantly off level". My RV is a 28’ Keystone Cougar 5th wheel and I have the refrigerator running while traveling so it is probably not very level. Is this a bad practice? Thank you. Richard E. Jackson, Brush, Colorado. Mark says… That’s definitely a point worth clarifying! The potential for damage mainly exists when the refrigerator is operated off level and the RV is parked for any period of time. In this circumstance, the coolant inside the refrigerator’s boiler can collect at one end, leaving a part of the boiler without an adequate amount of coolant. The heat from the propane flame or electric element can then bake the dry area of the boiler and cause crystals and scale to form. These deposits will break loose and float around in the cooling system, eventually clogging it. That’s why you should shut the refrigerator down if you’ll be parked for more than a few minutes in a significantly off–level situation. This is generally not a problem when you are traveling down the road. That’s because the shifting, bumping, and various accelerations and decelerations tend to keep the coolant inside the refrigerator boiler in constant motion. This prevents any dry spots or hot spots from forming, and prevents any cooling system damage. Dear Mark, Please clarify your answer to Sharon about the motorhome and winterizing. Does she need to keep it plugged in and kept at 60, even after winterizing? My husband insists on keeping ours heated all winter, even though winterized…we live in Conn… please advise… Love your column… Marilynn Shea Mark says… If you have fully winterized your RV, then there’s no real need to keep it heated all winter. The intent of winterizing is to prepare your rig to withstand sub–freezing temperatures inside and out while it is in storage for the winter months. Keeping it heated won’t hurt anything, but if you’ve done a good job of winterizing, it is quite unnecessary. Dear Mark, We just purchased a 10 year old class A motorhome. What are the inspection requirements for our propane system? We have a permanently mounted tank that runs our generator, water heater and furnace. Thanks. Mark says… There are two types of propane containers typically used in RVs: The ASME tank (Frame mounted horizontal tanks that are found in most motorhomes) and the DOT cylinder (Found in most trailers and 5th wheels. Similar to a grill tank). The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) requires that all DOT cylinders be recertified after 12 years from the date of manufacture. Recertification involves inspection and testing of the cylinder to confirm that the cylinder is still safe to remain in service. ASME tanks do not have to be recertified. However, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to have the tank visually inspected by a propane dealer, just for your own peace of mind. While you are there, they can easily check the pressure setting of your propane regulator to make sure it’s within specs. Dear Mark, Do you have some simple guidelines for the subject as to how to determine a requirement for a portable 2000 vs 3000 amp generator for a travel trailer? Pricing difference is significant and would like to be able to evaluate what is best. Thanks, Bob Williams Mark says… To choose the correct generator, first make a list of what you will be running with it. Let’s see: one air conditioner, a battery charger, a microwave, power tools, coffee pot, hair dryer, etc. Each item on the list should have a manufacturer’s wattage rating, so write those down too. Then, decide what, if anything, you’ll need to operate simultaneously. This should give you a pretty good idea as to the maximum wattage you’ll need. Then, add 15% to 20% for "fudge factor", as generator output is affected by altitude and temperature. In most cases, the air conditioner is the appliance that has the most effect on generator sizing. If you intend to run a typical 13K–15K BTU RV roof air with the generator, you will need at least a 3000W unit. If you want to run anything else at the same time, then the generator size has to ramp up as well. I was able to run my 13.5K BTU roof air with my Onan Microlite 2800W generator, but just barely. I couldn’t have anything else turned on in the rig at the same time, or the generator would stall when the air conditioning compressor cycled. If the air conditioner isn’t on your list, then a 2000W (or smaller) unit can run just about anything else in your RV. Microwaves are typically 600W – 1000W, coffee pots and toaster ovens max out around 1500W, and most power tools and other small appliances run well under 1000W. Dear Mark, While heading south for the winter, I enjoyed the breeze from the dash vents and when warmer, the air conditioning vents on the dash. Then suddenly, the last day everything quit working. The blower works and it sounds like the system is working but nothing is coming out the vents. I have tried to lay on floor and check connections but cannot find any loose hoses. Also, checked under the hood of my class A Damon Intruder gas engine. Any ideas or history? Dave Harwood Mark says… While I’m not intimately familiar with the design of your Damon, many manufacturers use vacuum actuators to open and close dampers for the dash ventilation system. The symptoms you describe sound a lot like a disconnected vacuum line or a leaking diaphragm in an actuator. A careful visual inspection and a "listen test" for a hissing sound with the engine idling may pinpoint the problem and save you a trip to the RV repairman. Be sure to inspect under the engine cowl as well, as the vacuum line for the heater and air conditioning controls is likely to connect to a vacuum reservoir close to the engine. Most of these reservoirs are simply a round canister with a check valve to "store" the vacuum generated in the engine intake manifold. Best of luck with your investigation! Do you have a question for Mark? Please submit your question via e–mail to woodalls@escapees.com. Questions should be about RV technical issues, general RV operation or RV lifestyle. Please remember, material will be edited. Because of the large volume of material and correspondence submitted, individual replies will not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of your material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of the Diamond Club newsletter in the Mark, My Words column. The Mark, My Words column also appears in Escapees magazine, a bi–monthly publication of the Escapees RV Club. For more information visit www.escapees.com/magazine Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program. Founded in 1978, the Escapees RV Club provides a total support network for Rvers that includes a wide variety of opportunities for fun, adventure, and education. CHAPTERS There are 51 chapters across the U.S., Canada, and Mexico that offer local luncheons and rallies within 150 miles of home. Everyone is welcome to attend. HOPs Theme–related outings and adventures held across the country. ESCAPADES Five–day events, Escapades offer over 60 seminars and workshops to educate, entertain, and enhance the fun and use of RVs. PARKS Our RV park system offers short–term, long–term, and home–base parking options. MAIL SERVICE The best mail–forwarding service in the country. Members can personalize their mail delivery receiving only the mail they want when they want. PLUS MUCH MORE! A complete listing of all Escapees events, and a comprehensive list of member benefits is found at www.escapees.com. Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit www.escapees.com or call 888–757–2582. Woodalls subscribers can save $10 on a new Escapees membership! For more information, visit the Escapees website. Back to Woodall's