Good Sam RV Travel Guide & Campground Directory

Mark...My Words

Hi, folks. I hope you are enjoying the summer months by getting out in your RV! All too soon, we’ll be talking winterization again. Keep those questions coming and travel safe!


Hi, Mark,

Big fan of your column, tons of great advice/ideas. We recently got our toy hauler out of winter storage. We had stored a couple of quads and a golf cart inside it for the winter and some type of oil leaked onto the vinyl floor. It was in the vicinity or the right rear of the golf cart, and it is an electric cart, so must be like gear lube from the rear axle or something out of the electric motor itself. To make matters worse, I didn't see it before backing the cart out and, of course, I got a tire in it and smeared it 3/4 of the length of the trailer and on the tailgate. It seems to have soaked right into the vinyl and stained it. We tried numerous household cleaning and floor cleaning products and even tried spraying brake cleaner on a small area, and nothing seems to touch it. I'm sure this must be a fairly common problem with toy haulers. The toys we put in them are all subject to leaking all sorts of oil/fluids on the floor. Do you (or anyone) have any suggestions to get the stains out, or is my floor just ruined? Thanks, Terry

Hi, Terry,

I’m afraid it’s bad news! Most vinyl and linoleum flooring is actually fairly porous, and oil will get trapped in the pores of the material, making it almost impossible to remove. Gear oil is especially nasty, as it is very thick and tenacious. You really can’t use most solvents on that flooring, as they will also cause damage. You might try sawdust or kitty litter on the area, to try to get it to wick some of the oil back up, but I doubt you’ll be able to get it all out and make the stain disappear. Perhaps one of our other readers may have a suggestion. If I receive any, I’ll send them along to you. For now, it’s looking like new flooring to me. Or you might try rubber garage mats or flooring over the old vinyl. That stuff is impervious to just about anything. Here are some examples:


Hi, Mark, 

Is there such a thing as a temperature-controlled container, or some such thing, in which one can store medications and prescriptions to keep them within the temperature ranges they need to be in order to remain functional while motorhoming? Lou

Hi, Lou,

Wow, what a great question, and one that caught me completely without an answer! I did some research, and it appears that the majority of medicines require “controlled room temperature” storage, which is generally considered to be 68 - 77 degrees F, with “occasional” excursions to 59F or 86F. Some medications require very specific storage temperatures, like insulin, but most do fine within the limits mentioned above. In all cases, if in doubt, ask your doctor or pharmacist. I was unable to find anything resembling a temperature-controlled medicine storage box that would maintain those temperatures. The best suggestion I can think of would be to use a very small insulated picnic cooler to contain your medicines, and keep it in an inside cabinet or on a shelf inside the RV where it will be subjected to the least temperature variation. That should minimize the temperature changes. Most folks would want to keep the inside of their motorhome within their own comfort zone, whether parked or traveling, and that’s going to fall into the suggested range (I hope). For towable RVs, you would probably want to carry the medicines with you in the tow vehicle in hot or cold weather, since the trailer won’t be climate-controlled while traveling. I think this is a great wakeup call for all RVers as something folks need to pay attention to!



We have a 1997 Coachmen Class "C" 30-foot. We have installed additional 120-volt accessories: 42-inch plasma TV, surround sound, DVD/VHS, DirecTV receiver, convection microwave, electric water heater, and a portable electric heater (1500 watt). We keep tripping the 30-amp breaker in the M/H circuit breaker panel and the 30-amp breaker at the power cord connection panel, sometimes both at the same time. My question is can we replace the 30-amp cord with a 50-amp cord and replace the 30- amp (MAIN) circuit breaker in the M/H panel with a 50-amp (MAIN) circuit breaker? I have found that the 50-amp circuit breaker panel and the 30-amp breaker panel are very similar, and the circuit breakers are identical! I can purchase a 50-amp circuit breaker panel for $250.00 plus another $100.00 for the cost of the 50-amp circuit breaker and 50-amp cord from an RV dealer! Total cost: $350.00. Or replace the 30- amp breaker with a 50-amp breaker and a 50-amp power cord for less than $100.00! Retired and trying to save some $. Thank you, Larry and Gretchen

Hi, Larry and Gretchen,

Under no circumstances should you consider replacing that 30-amp breaker with a 50- amp breaker! Circuit breakers are a safety device and are intended to protect the wiring in the coach should an over-current condition exist. On top of that, an RV 50-amp service has two “hot” legs and cannot simply be wired to your existing single circuit breaker panel. That being said, let’s go back to the beginning: The problem is, you have added more electrical loads than your RV’s system can support, and that’s why you are popping the breaker. If you are careful, you can time-share the various appliances and accessories to prevent overloading the system. Don’t try to run everything at the same time, and you will probably be able to get by alright. That is the least expensive way to work the problem. However, if you need and want more available capacity, the only safe and sane way to accomplish that is to convert the RV over to a 50-amp service. A proper conversion would probably require a new AC distribution panel and a new 50- amp umbilical power cord. Also, if you have a generator and a transfer switch, it would have to be rewired for the new service. You can purchase 50-amp RV distribution boxes from a number of RV parts sources, and also the 50-amp power cords and connectors for the shore power hookup. Once the new panel is installed, the rig’s original AC circuits would have to be connected to the correct-sized breakers in the new distribution panel. I think it goes without saying that this is not a modification that should be done by the average RV owner! A qualified electrician or RV technician should do the conversion. There may be significant costs involved as well. I would expect a conversion like this to cost between $400 and $1000, depending on how much you have to pay for labor. One place to ask about conversion opportunities and costs would be the factory where your RV was built. Working on and modifying AC power systems without having the appropriate skills and training can kill you and/or your friends and loved ones. Don’t even think about doing it unless you are sure you know how to do it safely.


Hi, Mark,

I just purchased a 24-ft travel trailer (27 ft+ from hitch to bumper) that has a tongue weight of 800 pounds.  My driveway has a slight slope to it, such that the tongue would be facing downhill.  I would need to have the tongue jack pretty much all the way extended to level the trailer from front to back. My overly active brain has visions of bending the jack tube because of the angular relationship of the forces.  What is the best way to level a trailer on a sloping surface?  Would using thick wood blocks help to reduce the loading?  Is it even something to worry about? Dave

Hi, Dave,

Anytime you need to park on a slope, you need to securely chock the trailer wheels to prevent it from rolling. On significant slopes, it’s best to chock both sides, fore and aft. You can use wood blocks to chock the tires, but purpose-designed wheel chocks would be more secure. Here’s an example of what I’m referring to.  These are available at most auto parts stores and RV dealers and are inexpensive and long-lasting. Once the trailer is chocked, it can’t roll, so it can’t put any real fore/aft load on your tongue jack. It doesn’t hurt to put a wood block under the jack to keep it from sinking into the pavement or road surface and to reduce the leverage on the jack components if the trailer will be in use while parked. (People moving around inside can cause a lot of motion, even if it is chocked.) In most cases, those jacks are pretty strong and don’t require much “worry.”


Afternoon, Mark;

I read recently that when using a surge protector (let’s say 30amp), you can no longer utilize a 50-to-30 adapter if you find yourself in a site that only offers 50-amp service. Is this correct and, assuming so, why? Thanks, cuomofam

Hi, cuomofam,

If you have a 30-amp RV and are using either a 30-amp built-in surge suppressor or one that goes on the end of your umbilical cord and plugs into the pedestal receptacle, it should work just fine with a 50-amp (male) to 30-amp (female) adapter. The circuit will look “normal” to the surge suppressor. However, if you have a 50-amp RV and are using a 50-amp surge suppressor, some will not work well with a 30-amp adapter because the single 30-amp circuit is tied to both legs of the 50-amp receptacle on the adapter, and some surge suppressors identify that as a wiring fault. So it’s true for 50- amp rigs sometimes and almost never true for 30-amp rigs. It all depends on the make and model of surge suppressor in use.


Hi, Mark,

 I am looking at replacing the tires on our 31-foot fifth-wheeler. The present tires are 235/85R16, and their load capacity is way over the axle and trailer load capacity. Can I safely move to a smaller size that more closely matches the axle and trailer capacities? Possibly 215/85R16? Thanks, John

Hi, John,

You can safely go to a smaller tire size as long as the tire is within the rim’s tire width design limits and the tire has adequate load-carrying capacity for the application. The first is fairly easy. The difference in width for those two tires is minimal, so I would not expect you to have any rim width issues, but a competent tire shop could advise you if needed. The second is a bit more involved: Before you change to a different tire with a lower load capacity, you have to know what load the tire is actually carrying. The only way to know that with any certainty is to have the fully loaded trailer weighed at a weighing facility that can provide individual wheel weights. One possibility is Escapees SmartWeigh (; another is RVSEF ( Once you know what load the tire is actually carrying, you’ll be able to choose a replacement tire with an adequate weight capacity.


Hello, Mark:

I read your question from Hunter regarding dual-pane side window leakage.  There are companies that will remove the side window, completely disassemble it, clean the panes, then reassemble using new (claimed non-shrinking) material as inner seal. One company that performs this we came across at Hershey's RV show last September. I've included a link to their website. Hope this helps Hunter and others!! Dave (I'm not affiliated with the company, by the way.)

Thanks, Dave, for sharing that!


Mark Nemeth has been involved with all things RV for more than ten years, including almost 5 years on the road as a fulltimer. Nowadays, Mark is parked for a while and works on staff for the Escapees RV club as technical advisor, consumer affairs director, and instructor in the Escapees RVer's Boot Camp program.

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Please remember, material will be edited. Because of the large volume of material and correspondence submitted, individual replies will not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of your material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of the Woodall's/CampingLife Navigator newsletter in the Mark, My Words column.

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Some content previously printed in Escapees magazine, published by the Escapees RV Club. All material provided by Mark Nemeth, Escapees Magazine Technical Advisor and Boot Camp Instructor. For more information about the Escapees RV Club, please visit or call 888–757–2582.

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